The Salem Express is one of the most spectacular yet disturbing wrecks in the world. She is a former ferry that sank off the coast of Safaga in Egypt in 1991. For divers vacationing in Makadi Bay, Soma Bay or Safaga, a visit to the dive site is an absolute must. You can even dive into the sunken ship. 17 years after my first visit, I have returned to the Salem Express wreck. A field report about goosebump moments on a ghost ship that is second to none.

Head full speed ahead towards one of the southernmost dive sites in Safaga. As part of my week Diving in Soma Bay Today I'm going on a very special trip to a shipwreck that is causing a lot of excitement among divers. Today the sea is calm - although calm is relative. Because the further out you go out to sea, the wavier it can be. But that doesn't seem to bother anyone. Most of the divers on board are silent and concentrated. Today's dive site has it all. This is the famous, infamous Salem Express wreck, which is located at the popular reef diving site Shaab Sheer in the very south of Safaga.

On the approximately one and a half hour journey to the wreck on the day boat Scuba World Divers A very special experience awaits us from Soma Bay: a large group of dolphins comes to our boat, frolicks on the bow and accompanies us for a short distance. What a perfect start to a day of diving that has it all. So much so that I resisted it at first.

The wreck is emotionally moving

Because the wreck of the Salem Express is quite something - not necessarily in terms of diving, because the first superstructures start at 12 meters and the stern is at a depth of just over 30 meters. But emotionally – you see so many personal items, cabins and cars there. In addition, hundreds of people died from this wreck, some of whom are probably still trapped in the ship today. There's a lot of mental cinema going on underwater - I guess you get it.

Video – Impressions of the wreck of the Salem Express

Below I have selected a video for you from diving on the wreck of the Salem Express - it shows very clearly why the sunken ship is a notorious wreck.

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I never wanted to go back to the Salem Express wreck

My experiences with the ghost ship

When I heard about the wreck, I was reminded of my dives on the Salem 17 years ago in 2005. Those were some of my first dives in the ocean as an open water diver. The dive site is definitely suitable for beginners. The ship's superstructure is at 12 meters - quite relaxed in itself and no big deal even for beginners.

But absolute goosebumps, head cinema and an oppressive feeling await you there. At the time I thought: once is enough for me - that's enough. It is not the wreck or dive site itself. At just over 100 meters long and about 18 meters wide, the ship is large, but not overly large.

What can go to your head underwater is the history and drama that surrounds this ship. Especially when you see the belongings like TVs, music cassettes, cars and clothes in the sea. And so I said no for three days before finally saying yes. And I shouldn't regret it.

Here we go – diving the wreck of the Salem Express

And as we steer towards the imposing wreck, I ponder the very history that surrounds this ghost ship. The Salem Express is a former ferry that sank off the coast of Safaga in 1991. It was en route from Jeddah in Saudi Arabia to Safaga when it crashed onto the Shaab Sheer reef and sank. The tragedy claimed the lives of hundreds, possibly thousands, and few survivors. Since the accident, the wreck has been a popular destination for divers looking to explore the ship.

Detailed briefing and safety briefing before the first dive

As we are today. Before we go into the water, the dive guides Hassan and Sawy from Scuba World Divers give us a particularly detailed briefing with numerous safety instructions - and the history of the wreck. With a little hint: "I'll tell you the second part of the story after diving!" Then we go into the water in the best conditions: little current and good visibility await us.

Free descent to the Salem Express

The descent is free, although there is a descent line, because the shipwreck is practically impossible to miss. The Salem Express is on its side and you first dive towards a huge steel wall with small windows. It is well-preserved, has already started to grow heavily and immediately offers a unique insight into the ship's past. Behind the small windows are cabins and you can see the decks and superstructure of the ship from afar.

Left shoulder to the hold

You can left shoulder down to the imposing propellers that are taller than a human being. The rudder is also there. There you are at well over 20 meters and one of the deepest places you can dive on the ship. There at the stern there are a lot of objects scattered on the ground and you can also dive into the wreck of the Salem Express. The huge hatch of the hold lies on the ground and the way into the ship is free. The rear part of the cargo area is freely accessible and open at the top. However, you can also penetrate much deeper into the ship from there.

There in the hold is a car upside down, a music cassette and numerous bales of luggage. The hold is a spooky place. From there you can dive deeper into the ship and also pass the cabins. In the corridors, however, it gets narrow and disturbing. Inside you will find personal belongings such as children's dolls. It is scary to dive in this ghost ship. This is for advanced and emotionally stable divers only.

Observe the wreck from the outside

But nobody has to dive into the ship. You can also simply let the impressions work on you outside the ship, well-balanced. There are many interesting details to discover, such as the open part of the hold that you can easily dive through, part of the cabins that are on the outside, the large restaurant with the remaining tables and the bridge at the bow of the ship. Lifeboats, the superstructure of the sun deck and the emblems of the shipping company can still be seen. There is a television on the ground.

A small dent in the bow hatch sank the ship

A look into the bridge is exciting and from there it is only a stone's throw to the bow hatch, which is the source of all evil. There you can see the dent where the ship hit the reef. It is comparatively small and inconspicuous. The hatch was basically just pushed aside - but far enough for the ship to fill completely with water in minutes. A death trap for the hundreds of people in the large, walk-through hold.

And that's the thought that comes to mind once again at the bow flap. The wreck is above all a place full of sadness and warning. It should be approached with particular respect. You should enter it like you enter a cemetery – reverently. Because that's exactly what the wreck of the Salem Express is: officially a cemetery.

The remains of the ship are a reminder of the many people who lost their lives. It's a place full of goosebumps and you can literally feel the atmosphere. The dive is not for the faint of heart. My imagination really played its part while I was diving and it doesn't let me go even after the dives.

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See bodies on the Salem Express?

I can reveal this much in advance: It shouldn't actually be possible to see corpses on the wreckage of the Salem Express today. Hopefully. The places in the ship where the remains of the dead are located are said to be welded. Apparently there are always horror stories about someone claiming to have found bones. Bones may still be found in the cabins inside.

But this is exactly why the cabins are closed and should not be entered if possible. It is all about respect and maintaining the peace of the dead. Nevertheless, bodies are found in the wreck of the Salem Express. The sunken ship is an official burial place for hundreds of people - in other words: an underwater cemetery.

The myths and stories

After our return to the surface, Hassan tells us the rest of his story, which has quite a spooky factor. It consists of myths and stories related to the wreck and the sinking. The truth content is by no means guaranteed, as Hassan emphasizes. According to the rumors, the ship was excessively overloaded. Accordingly, up to 1600 people are said to have been on the ship. According to the narrative, practically no one survived. The salvage is also said to have been different. Accordingly, the vast majority of people are not safe and are still in the wreck of the ship.

whereabouts of the captain

Only one woman is said to have survived, swimming all the way to Safaga and getting out of the water there. But that's pretty unlikely. It's a few kilometers to the port. Certain myths also surround the captain. Accordingly, he is said to have locked himself in his cabin after realizing the fatal mistake he had made. Since then, no one has opened the captain's cabin.

A diving day between shudders and enthusiasm

The horrific wreck doesn't leave me alone even after the dives - and I take the time on the return journey to reflect on what I've experienced. If you have a vivid imagination, you can definitely get carried away by the trip. But there is also enthusiasm for the spectacular shipwreck, which is so beautifully overgrown and full of marine life.

I would return to the ghost ship at any time - and perhaps explore it further. Nobody can turn back time and dealing with difficult topics is part of life.

On the way back from the Salem Express wreck there is another alarm. The sea is full of birds and fish are jumping out of the water. On the return trip we meet three whale sharks, which we can observe from the ship. This is the first time I've ever seen a whale shark. What a perfect conclusion after a successful day of diving, which I definitely wouldn't want to miss.

History of the Salem Express

The Salem Express was about 25 years old before it sank and had been sailing at sea without much difficulty. It must be made very clear: both the circumstances of the sinking and the condition of the ship are still the subject of speculation to this day. Much of what is spread about the sinking is sailor's tale. Other things may be true. However, with most myths we will never know whether they are true or not.

Beginnings as Fred Scamaroni

The history of the Salem Express ferry began in a French shipyard on the Mediterranean. Built as Fred Scamaroni in 1966 at the Société des Forges et Chantiers de la Méditerranée shipyard in La Seyne-sur-Mer, she represented an era of increasing ferry traffic, using roll-on/roll-off (RoRo) technology.

This technology allowed vehicles to drive directly onto the ship and come off again upon arrival. With a length of around 110 meters, a width of 18 meters and equipped with three decks that were accessible via bow and stern ramps as well as side doors, the Fred Scamaroni stood for modern shipping at the time.

Change of name and ownership: A chronicle of change

Over its lifespan, the ferry saw several changes in ownership and name - a common fate in the maritime world. After starting under the French shipping company Compagnie Générale Transatlantique (CGT) and a transition to the subsidiary Compagnie Générale Transméditerranéenne, she found her way to the Société Nationale Maritime Corse-Méditerranée.

In the 1980s she cruised the English Channel under the name Nuits St. Georges for the Dunkerque Ramsgate Ferries shipping company. After further changes of ownership, including the Lord Maritime Enterprise, she was taken over by the Egyptian shipping company Samatour Shipping Company in 1988 and renamed Salem Express.

The Tragedy of the Salem Express

The night of December 14, 1991 would go down in history as one of the worst maritime disasters in the Red Sea. The Salem Express, now an Egyptian-flagged ship, struck the Shaab Sheer reef near Safaga during a storm. The collision caused water to quickly enter the ships' hulls.

Because the Salem Express was known for its open decks, it sank in an alarmingly short time. The majority of passengers were pilgrims returning from the Hajj, the Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca. Most were caught in their sleep by the disaster, dramatically complicating rescue efforts.

Official reports put the death toll at around 470, although the actual number is believed to be higher. The exact circumstances that led to the deviation from course remain unclear to this day and are the subject of speculation and debate.

Salem Express as it stands today

Today the wreck of the Salem Express lies at a depth of 11 to 32 meters and has become a major diving destination. Due to the sad background and the fact that not all victims were recovered, the wreck is treated with a certain degree of reverence. Divers are allowed to explore the wreck from the outside, while access to certain areas, such as the passenger cabins, remains prohibited to respect the site as a sailor's grave.

Scuba dive the Salem Express wreck with Scuba World Divers

Diving the wreck of the Salem Express with Scuba World Divers Soma Bay is a special experience for experienced divers. You head for the Salem Express from Soma Bay and Makadi Bay. The wreck is between 30 minutes (Speedboat Soma Bay), one hour and 30 minutes (Soma Bay day tour) and 3 hours and 20 minutes (Makadi Bay day tour) and is located southeast of Safaga.

When diving on the wreck you can discover various raspberry corals, huge soft corals on the smoke pipe as well as pipefish and groupers. The level of difficulty is advanced and at least AOWD/AAD is required.

All information about diving on the Salem Express with Scuba World Divers can be found on their website at scubaworlddivers.com – Reviews at TripAdvisor

Impressions from diving at the Salem Express wreck

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Diving the wreck of the Salem Express – Welcome back to the ghost ship

My detailed conclusion

17 years after my first visit I have decided to revisit the wreck. I was impressed by the preservation of the ship and the variety of details that can be discovered. Once you have adequately researched the history of the wreck, you can also focus on the beautiful vegetation and the numerous animal species that can be found on the ship. It was an unforgettable experience and a visit I would recommend to anyone vacationing in Makadi Bay, Soma Bay or Safaga.

Today a popular diving site near Safaga

The Salem Express wreck is now a popular destination for divers interested in learning more about the ship's history and the tragedy of her sinking. It lies at a depth of 12 to 32 meters and can be dived from the outside and partly also from the inside. It is important to know that the wreck has been officially declared a burial ground and the cabins are not to be entered.

Dive respectfully on the wreck

Divers should be respectful and sensitive to the wreck and its history and ensure they are properly trained and qualified to dive at this depth. They should also follow local laws and regulations, as well as the dive operator's recommendations.

Diving at the Salem Express Wreck - Have you been there before or are you planning your diving trip there? Share your experiences in the comments.